Wednesday, June 10, 2015

The West of Cebu


This is completely different from most of my previous posts. But a viable alternative for divers coming from Moalboal and who can't go up through the Trans Central Highway back to Cebu city just yet - due to incomplete decompression time.

Just a few hours away from Moalboal is Balamban - home to the largest shipbuilding yard in the Philippines, where Tsuneishi Heavy Industries puts out these large ships once every twenty three days.

Courtesy of Col.Clarence Martinez
And just a few minutes away is a well put "dude ranch" for cowboy wanna be's wanting to ride them thar trails.

Photo courtesy of Col. Clarence Martinez
Cavalier 83 Horse Ranch is a rest house, a quaint ranch and home to five quarter horses and a young foal, where visiting riders and wanna be riders can come to for a weekend of "horsing around".
The first day is devoted to learning about horses, how to treat them properly and how to mount, dismount and ride them within a contained space.

The next day is a full day on horseback, riding the trails around the undeveloped side of Balamban, where roads are not paved, the trails are not clear and the air is fresh and sweet.
Photo courtesy of Col. Clarence Martinez

The ranch owner made it so that during the trail rides, the barbecue lunch is prepared while the riders are moving in that direction, stopping for a quick lunch break and going back to the trails for the remainder of the day, before going back to unwind before leaving Balamban for the city and taking a great memory of horseback riding along.
Photo courtesy of Col. Clarence Martinez

The weekend visits are privately arranged and visitors should not expect more than airconditioned rooms, a campsite for large groups, rustic outdoor cooking - but with freshly picked vegetables grown organically on the premises - and lots of fresh air, less tech and more talk and great memories.


Courtesy of Col. Clarence Martinez

Tuesday, June 9, 2015

The Gentle "Butandings" of Oslob



We come to a place where there's an ongoing debate regarding the gentle giants of the waters in southern Cebu - the Whale Sharks or "butandings" of Oslob.

Courtesy of Rudy Balbuena
 
Oslob is located 117 kilometers southeast of Cebu City.

Courtesy of Rudy Balbuena
It is now known as the place where people come to swim with and take selfies with the whale sharks that prowl around the waters.

A debate among the "environmentalists" and the locals rages, surrounding the matter of continuing this beneficial relationship between the community of Oslob and these large sea creatures, as it is being alleged that maintaining this symbiotic relationship of "feeding" these animals creates an unnatural and "unhealthy" dependency on humans for their food.

What most of the people from out of town don't know is that it's been going on for over thirty years already.

The practice began when fishermen began dropping "uyap" or krill into the waters to attract fishes to catch, sometime in the late 70's.  To the fishermen's surprise, the large fishes began to appear, and regularly - to wait for the fishermen to come and drop their bait into the water.

In recent years, the municipality of Oslob took a proactive role to protect the marine life in the area and declared it a marine sanctuary - and educated the fisherfolk in the area about the benefits of protecting the marine life in the area instead of recklessly pillaging their aquatic resources.

It worked.

To boatmen who ferry scuba divers to the area (paying a fee of 600 pesos per diver) and snorkelers(400 pesos per), they earn more by taking them out on their outrigger boats than if they would had they remained marginalized fishermen, resorting to dynamite or cyanide fishing in extreme cases just to gather enough to sell in the market at less than viable prices.
 
Courtesy of Rudy Balbuena
The villagers have realized this already. The boatmen begin their services early in the morning, and limit the whale shark visits to sometime around noon, to allow the fish to revert back to the natural habitat and do what they normally do.  Villagers nearby offer a place to eat, and sell token souvenirs to visiting tourists who have come to visit the playful sea creatures.

The disturbing point in all this, is that the ones who do not live in Oslob want this practice stopped - not realizing that they will disrupt a viable livelihood in this community that really does not harm the whale sharks.  Other places have positioned themselves as places where whale sharks traverse their waters - not saying that it sometimes takes three hours on a boat ride and they don't get to sight even one shark.

In Oslob, all you need to do is ask a boatman and he'll take you right to the spot and you will see two or three, guaranteed. Somewhere farther out, and you get to see the larger ones underwater.

Courtesy of Rudy Balbuena
Back in the 1980's, I used to live a double life as a college student and a dive guide to earn my leisure money while enjoying the sights underwater.  I was part of a group of divers and instructors at that time that explored the southern Central Visayas divesites to show visiting diving groups the places where the rich marine life was abundant.  One of them - a very good friend and one of the three celebrated dive instructors at that time - gave me these captivating photos.
 
I am grateful to my good friend and dive mentor, Rudy Balbuena, Dive Instructor and aquatic resources protection advocate, who continues diving up to today -  for providing these photos of the gentle "butandings" that are the main reason why tourists come to Oslob.  In a later post, I intend to narrate the story of these divers and what we referred to as the "Bahamas" life, in between dives at the places where we all worked and played as dive guides.


Saturday, May 30, 2015

Moalboal - the dive destination of Cebu.



Moalboal.

This place has become synonymous with diving, as far as Cebu is concerned.

Why shouldn't it be?

With a drop off not too far from the shoreline, it's a haven for anyone with scuba gear, a tank full of compressed air and a willingness to explore what's available.  Years ago, it wasn't surprising for locals to see a fishing boat trawling within a few yards of them near the shore.

It's that close.

Some 90 kilometers down south of Cebu City, Moalboal is a two hour and fifteen minute ride via the national highway and down the Santander-Barili-Toledo road.


Buses leave from the South bus terminal every hour going to Moalboal. Once you get there, take a tricycle to your chosen hotel or resort. Be specific. Enterprising tricycle drivers deliberately drop you off at resorts that give commissions to prospective guests brought by these tricycle drivers, so be aware of where you’re being taken.

Otherwise, if you're with a group - renting a car from one of the establishments in Cebu city will get you there in less time and you can arrange for a confirmed pick up. Tip well. Your driver will definitely be back.


There are several places to stay in Moalboal - most of them located on Panagsama beach. White Beach is more tranquil and scenic. But the night life at Panagsama is enjoyable.

Prices range from less than a thousand pesos per room night to a little over 3,000 pesos per room night at Turtle Bay Dive Resort - a resort put up by divers. To get a better idea, visit their blog here.

Courtesy of Turtle Bay Dive Resort
There are several diveshops along the shore, where you can rent well maintained equipment easily.  You can also arrange for boat diving off Pescadores island - a serene islet that's been declared a marine sanctuary. There's a lighthouse on the island and underwater scenery include swarms of sardines and sea turtles as underwater photography subjects.
Courtesy of Turtle Bay Dive Resort
The serious diver has to go to Moalboal at least once. The beach cannot compare to the white sand beaches of Mactan, Malapascua, San Remigio, Bantayan and other great beaches of Cebu. But the diving is definitely spectacular.